Sailing in French Polynesia

David Roth, who works in ElderTrek's Sales Department was recently on the Aranui 3 and sailed from Tahiti to the Marquesas Islands. Due to limited internet access his reports could not be uploaded during the cruise. We include them below in a series of articles where he shares his thoughts of the trip.

It has been 17 years since I was last in French Polynesia and as my taxi raced around the hills outside of Papeete the sights and smells of this tropical island came roaring back to me flooding me with warm memories. Entering the town I could see how Papeete had grown – all relative of course to things in French Polynesia, which means not that much. I would not be stopping in town this visit for I was off to join the Aranui 3 on a 14-day sailing voyage to the Marquesas Islands.

The Aranui 3 is a combination freighter/cruise ship that visits the Marquesas Islands once a month delivering everything the islands need. The name “Aranui” means “The Great Highway” in the Maori language. I knew this was not to be like any other cruise voyage and my first clue came as we entered the port area of Papeete. Rather than embark here by all the major cruise ships my taxi continued on to the commercial area on the other side of the port. Passing freight yards and warehouses we met the Aranui 3 on a lonely pier. Shipping containers were piled everywhere and fork lift drivers were working feverishly loading goods onto her deck as my taxi came to a stop. At first glance the Aranui 3 seemed much larger than I had imagined.. At 386 feet in length she was much larger than some of the other expedition-type cruise ships I had sailed on in the past. I would estimate that 60% of the vessel was freighter and the remaining 40% for passengers.

I was early and one worker on the pier motioned that it was ok for me to board. No fancy welcoming party for me. I deftly avoid a large oil spill on the ground and struggled to carry my luggage up the narrow gangway. This was a working ship and appeared to be all business. Later on after getting settled into my cabin I found a spot on one of the upper decks and watched as the loading process continued. It appeared as if the Aranui 3 was loading everything imaginable. Frozen foods, refrigerators, pallets of powdered milk, cheese, even a small boat. There was a very methodical system whereby two huge decks swung open and each item was loaded in a particular order into the belly of the ship by one of two massive cranes which overlooked the foredeck. Amidst all this activity, arriving passengers were met on the pier by a crew member and their luggage was placed on a conveyor belt and brought up into the side of the ship while the cargo-loading process continued unabated all around them. At times it was difficult to tell the passengers from the cargo as everything was being loaded as quickly as possible.

Soon after, the horns sounded and we went back to the rails to watch as the ship slipped her moorings and began the long voyage to the Marquesas Islands. The sailing journey would take over 3 days and would include a stop in the Tuamotu Archipelago. The Aranui’s bar had prepared a welcome for us with snacks and a local punch. We sailed off in leisurely fashion as the heavily tattooed crew below worked feverishly hauling lines and storing cargo. It was a rather odd combination but then again the Aranui 3 is not your regular cruise ship. The rusting hull of the Aranui 1 sits at the opening of Papeete Harbor listing badly to one side and I could not help but glance over at her as we sailed past hoping our voyage would have a better ending.

ElderTreks Wins Recognition

We are pleased to announce that ElderTreks has been named one of Entrepreneur magazine's 2011 100 Brilliant Companies in their June edition.  Their annual list showcases those companies deemed to be the most innovative and inspiring in their respective fields.  Their list included the brightest ideas, the hottest industries and the most insightful innovators out there today.  It is nice to know that what was an inspiring idea almost 25 years ago is still being recognized today.

Bukhara

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

Bukhara is our first walled city and the history here goes back 2700 years.  Until recently it was 2500 years, but they just changed it because of new evidence.

First impressions!!!  Remember, these are only mine.

They have carefully restored a lot of the city including the walls, but in doing so they have not recreated the atmosphere within it. By that I mean they have forced the street traders into alcove shops and in doing so have lost that hustle and bustle so prevalent from that time.

The Mosques, Madrassas and Mausoleums (now known in the group as the 3 MMM's) are beautiful but so much of it looks new. Now don't get me wrong the recreation when finished will create an attraction for tourists forever. They are already here in their thousands. At night however it seems to loose that newness and whilst the bustle is gone the hustle returns.

Silk from this part of the world is everywhere. En route our guide has explained that each silk worm will consume 30 Kilo's of Mulberry leaves before spinning it's cocoon. At that point they boil the cocoons to kill the worm before they can hatch as a butterfly. We stopped en route to photograph donkey-drawn carts carrying the cut Mulberry branches. For the ladies a hand made silk scarf will run you anywhere up to $25 dependent on the quality, for the men a bottle of Vodka is just slightly more expensive than a bottle of beer and that's the good stuff.

I'm not sure what season we are in here as the roses which are plentiful, have already started to whither. In Canada they are just starting to grow!!  But the fruit is ready.  Strawberries, cherries are available everywhere which brings me to the point of praising our tour leader Roger.

As this trip is technically work (ok it's a rough job but someone has to do it) I have been shadowing Roger from day 1. It's almost like doing 2 days each day. Wherever possible when we allow our clients a break in the afternoon it's off to visit the restaurant we are going to that night and a different one for lunch the next day. Here he goes over the menu of what will be served, order juices, water, sometimes vodka etc and most of all asks that 2 glasses be set for each person. Then it's on to a local market to buy whatever is needed for the next day.  Roger is the snack king of the tour leader world, so we look for local snacks he can give out on the bus or when walking, the man is always carrying this big backpack whilst the rest of us swelter in the heat.  Local fruits are the snack today, but they require their skins to be peeled before eaten as we cannot guarantee that they have been washed and so on. Back to the hotel just in time to freshen up in time to take the clients to dinner. He has done this trip several times before, has copious notes but things change. The puppet show he arranged one night used to be in one place that is now torn down so we have to track them down and rearrange another venue. Add to that the patience of Job and you wonder how they do it from trip to trip. Inevitably when we get to our restaurant no 2 glasses and patiently he goes through the process again.

Tomorrow it's onto Khiva, 11 hours through the desert!!!

Samarkand

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

Samarkand land of mystique and stories of the Silk Road.

After a 5 hour drive we arrive in the new tourist Mecca of Central Asia. It is strange but we have only been on the road a week or so but in that time we were the only tourists around. To then experience the return of the big busses is really quite a shock. What do you mean we aren't the only people here? Tourists from France, Germany and the rest of Europe are flocking to see this part of the world before it is changed forever.

Samarkand is where we first experience what I am starting to call the "we can build bigger buildings than you can" mentality that seems to pervade the history of this country. Registan Square is a sight that must be seen. Absolutely stupendous. The observatory built by Uleg Bek defies the imagination about what this guy could do with almost unlimited funds but ancient tools. Spent most of his life studying the stars instead of concentrating on running his empire.  The end result - deposed by his son who then had him put to death. A bit rough don't you think?

All of these interesting characters come from "Temur" a figure still revered here as a ruler who actually cared about his people. Current politicians please take note. His statue is in Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara.

It's really hot today, 34 Celsius.  In and out of the bus, walking really starts to take its toll on the group. But it's a full day of being educated by our guide Babar.  Yes just like the kids cartoon from yesteryear, but he has an almost encyclopedia type memory, full of anecdotes.

This is one of those places where pictures speak louder than words, so I will let them speak for me [ed note: awaiting Bob's pics!]. Tonight however we have an experience I think most of us did not want.  Earthquake!!! Most of us were awoken at around 2:20 in the morning to our beds swaying from side to side.  It went on for about 25 seconds (or at least seemed it). Sufficient that you wondered if it would stop or should we get the heck outa here. Then as quickly as it came it was gone.

However we survived and it is onto Bukhara.

Tashkent to Khojand

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

Today it is a side trip from Taskent in Uzbekistan to Khojand in Tajikistan. Early morning start as it is 2 hours plus to the border, but that gives us just amount of time to complete the forms needed for exiting Uzbekistan and re-entering later in the day. Gosh do these people love paperwork. We arrive at the border that you would think is straight out of the cold war. Barbed wire, soldiers and the inevitable line up. The locals have to wait for us and it still takes 90 minutes to process us out of Uzbekistan!  Now our forms indicate not only how much money we arrived with but how much we are leaving with (remember we have to do this all again when we return). It also includes how many bags we have so even though we don't have our suitcases we have to put them on the form. Talk about a stupid waste of time. 3 Customs officers process us; one checks the forms, one checks our passports (we have already been checked at immigration) and one enters it into the ledger that should be renamed the doomsday book its so big. At last we take our walk across no mans land ( about 500 metres) to Tajikistan where they say Tourists? come on in. A perfunctory glance at our passports, a quick stamp and we are in Tajikistan.

We have also travelled back 200 years in doing so. It's about an hour from the border to Khojand and when we arrive it's just us tourists and the locals. A guided tour of the local museum by a woman whose English is remarkable but I'm sure she didn't take a breath the whole time.They have spent a ton of money on this museum but not sure who is going to visit it. Lunch is served in I think the only air conditioned restaurant in town (it's hot 37 Celcius) then onto the local bazaar for some Retail Therapy.

This is a local bazaar, no stuff from China here. Fruit, vegetables, nuts and to please the women a visit to the section where they make local dresses. It's remarkable that here the locals are as interested in us as much as we are in them. When we take a picture we have to show them the digital result which brings much laughter. The day soon comes to an end then it's back to the border where we are almost waved through on the Tajikistan side, walk the 500 metres and then, yes you got it, back to them looking at forms, scanning bags etc on the Uzbek side before walking to our bus some 90 minutes later.

Back to the hotel but tired.

Bishkek to Tashkent

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

Our last full day in Kyrgyzstan and true to form the weather is still overcast and raining slightly. We are scheduled to go hiking in the Al Archa Gorge which is only 30 minutes from the city, but that 30 minutes takes us from a bustling city with monuments to Lenin (They actually keep them for 2 reasons one is that it is part of history, good or bad, and second, they have discovered that tourists want to see them!!! One of the last places in this part of the world that still has a few statues and where a whole floor of the state museum is dedicated to Lenin's life.) to the Al Archa Gorge where the mountains still have snow.

It's a real shame the weather is not better as the group is decked out in rain gear for a 2.5 mile hike into the park. The birds are quiet and hiding because they to do not like getting wet. The scenery however is magnificent.The hike (walk really) is refreshing, but it is cold.  You can see your breath. It is then onto the memorial for those lost in the Stalin years. During that time Kyrgyzstan was suffering sufficiently that a group of local citizens wrote to "Uncle Joe" asking that he help the people of Kyrgyzstan who were suffering greatly, if he could not help they respectfully suggested that Kyrgyzstan no longer be part of the Soviet Union. Well does "off with their heads" mean anything? All were rounded up and shot. It was only found out years later after the collapse when a daughter of one of those shot spoke up and in the ensuing investigation they found the remains of this group in the woods outside Bishkek.

The sun is shining the next morning as we say goodbye, maybe Kyrgyzstan is happy to see us go, and it is off to the airport for our flight to Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Roger, our tour leader, has warned us of the security we will go through at the airport but 4 times!!!!!  Twice before we have even got to check-in. This is our first introduction to the forms that we will be completing every time we enter or leave Uzbekistan. Two copies detailing everything. But the flight is on time and Uzbekistan Airlines impresses everyone with the seat pitch and the service on this 60 minute flight. Many grumblings about the bag of pretzels they get on American Airlines compared to the service onboard Uzbek Airlines.

Upon arrival the line takes us about an hour to clear customs and immigration which, when you think about it, is less that arriving at Toronto with half the formalities. Not sure what I expected about Tashkent but it is a long time since I have been impressed by a modern city. There are parks everywhere, wide boulevards lined with the best shops and, best of all, it's hot!!!! That short hop over the beginning of the Pamir mountains has taken us to a beautiful city, where the streets are clean and there is a sense of a nation on the go. Our day in Tashkent is filled with Islamic Madrassas, Mosques and Mausoleums.

Tired after two days of the heat (yes I know we are never satisfied) tomorrow we aree off to Samarkand.

Chong Kemin to Bishkek

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

Waking up to the noise of a farm and seeing fresh snow on the mountains gave truth to the fact it was only +5 C. But what a glorious morning. A breakfast of yoghurt and bread and away we go en route to Chopon Alta which is on the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul.  We are told it's the second highest lake in the world after Lake Titicaca. The lake itself has a level of salinity which prevents it from freezing in winter.  An interesting drive from one valley in the Tien Shan mountains, around them to another where the lake is, and the contrast in landscapes. On one side it is green to a certain point and then tall fir trees take over until the snow line. On the other side, nothing but grass. The explanation; one side gets a lot more sun.  The grass side that is.

We arrive at Chopon Alta on the lake after visiting a delightful family who teaches us how felt is made.  Tough work all the pressing and rolling, but then she invites us in to a lunch of salad and local chicken noodle soup. Bones and all.  An abortive visit to the local museum (closed) and then onto this resort on the side of the lake.  We are early in the season so apart from a few hardy locals we are the only people at this property.  You look out across the lake here to yet another view of the mountains. We are already at 1500 meters above sea level yet these peaks reach 7500 meters.  Ok, ok I'm enamoured with the mountains.

Dinner is at the hotel tonight and, whilst you would not call it a culinary extravaganza, it was certainly passable. Something similar to perogies. The weather is still cool and overcast but it doesn't seem to stop the humour of the group.  We wake up to blue skies and cool winds, a 7:00am breakfast, then on to Karakol.  En-route visiting the petroglyphs, 8th century BC, scratched onto boulders left by the last ice age.  Karakol is not what you would call a hive of activity but it is "Victory Day", the 9th May (WWII), and along comes a parade.  It starts with a group of young men looking very serious and stamping the beat for everyone else to follow.   The age of the marchers decreases until we are looking at kindergarten kids decked out in their finest to celebrate the day.  Hey what school kid didn't like a day off? After this unscheduled activity we visit the Preshevalsky Museum.  One tough guy.  He did 4 expeditions into central Asia in the late 1800's, all trying to visit Tibet.  The only time he made it they refused him entry.   He didn't have the right visa!   Only kidding, but yes, they did refuse him entry.   What a bummer!!   It takes two years to get to the border and then "sorry you should have used CIBT".   (For those that don't know CIBT, it is the visa service ElderTreks recommends in Canada and its partner ZVS in the US.)

Lunch (are you getting the small impression that as a group, all we do is eat?) is in a busy local restaurant then a stroll to the local market which takes all of 10 minutes.  We do however discover the "Gold" street across the road.  What's that reality show, "Pawn Kings" or something like that?  Anyway here is where the local population comes to hock their rings and jewelry for it then to be on sale.  No bargains though.  I looked at some earrings and they were $500.  On the way back to the hotel we stop at a Muslim cemetery which looks like a small village. Then, as we are running late, straight to a local restaurant (food again) for a fish dinner that is supposed to be like salmon.  Well... it was good, don't get me wrong, but it was not salmon.

We awake again to bright sunshine, good weather for our ride to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan via the Burana Tower.  This thing is 40 meters high but they lost 20 due to an earthquake and we, the 4 fools that we are, decide to climb it inside. Challenging it is, almost vertical steps, and when we get to the top Roger (our Tour Leader) tells us we are the first ElderTreks clients to do it.  I'm proud to say of the 4, 2 are ElderTreks staff, but the view was worth it.  This on top of a lunch (yes food again) of a beef stew served in a "yurt".   Absolutely delicious, cooked and served by the staff of the local museum to get extra $$. Then onto Bishkek.

Tomorrow we hike (need it to get rid of the food).

Almaty to Chong Kemin

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

If it's Tuesday it must be Almaty, Kazakhstan?  Arrived in the wee small hours of the morning, 05:00, which is what all international flights do here, arrive in the wee small hours that is. Not sure what impression I had created in my mind but having received the highly official visa in my passport before I came it was if I expected this whole palaver to enter the country. Well it was all over and done with in 10 minutes.  Eat your heart out Toronto Airport.  Clear immigration and customs and outside being met by our local representative Ulan. Asked him one time the meaning of his name and in Kyrg it means "first of twins".

The city seems a little out of place here, one can almost imagine Stalin saying "There Will Be A City" and it was done. 6 lane highways through the centre of town, some areas still having the Red Star above the buildings, very Soviet Unionesque. The group all arrived ok via Frankfurt and Istanbul (there's a plug for Turkish Airlines again) and they are a good bunch. From the eldest who has a weakness for red wine to the youngest who is full of beans so we should have all have a good laugh as long as we keep our sanity.

As Almaty is a relatively new city there are limited things to see and do. Part of the day tour of the city includes a ride in a cable car to the top of a hill overlooking the city. You turn one way and spread out is the city of Almaty and it is only then you begin to realize how large it is.  Not one 6 lane highway but several. Turn the other way and you are presented with this incredible view of the Tien Shan mountains, covered in snow year round.

The weather later made a turn for the worse but by that time we were inside this incredible old wooden church where there were icons that the locals had saved during communist times and replaced in later years. Interesting diversity in Almaty, you go from being hassled by Tajik women on the street for money for their babies to stores from Brioni, Boss and D&G and they are at full Italian prices folks, no cheapos here.

Then onto Kyrgyzstan. Talk about a scene from a war novel!!! The border crossing looked like all the refugees trying to escape the country, pandemonium everywhere. We had to offload all our bags from the bus, walk through Kazakhstan customs (don't let the locals knock you out the way otherwise you will be there all day) cross the bridge with our bags and go through Kyrgyzstan customs and immigration. $60 lighter in our pockets we were then admitted to the equivalent number of people going in reverse.

After a superb picnic lunch organized by our tour leader Roger it is back in the bus for a few hours drive past cemeteries on the side of the road that look like small villages, to this small village in the Chong Kemin valley. Flanked either side by the incredible mountains of the Tien Shan range, we are staying at the Ashu Guest House, where a local family has created the right "ElderTrekky" experience. Walking to this area, out of the village over what could be laughingly called lanes, and seeing farmers and local people still working the land by hand, planting potatoes.  Being welcomed by a local shepherd and him insisting on shaking your hand even though neither of us could understand each other.  Just a feeling that they are genuinely pleased to meet someone from afar. A dinner provided by the family that runs the guest house of pilaf and a local sweet made from local crackers and honey, washed down with, yes, Vodka. The rooms seem basic but not.  I know that sounds strange but they have installed full bathrooms into each room that is so big you could hold a party but has the feel you are staying at a farm house.

Tomorrow we travel to Lake Issy Kul and deeper into an area surrounded by these incredible mountains so stay tuned.

Istanbul

Bob Perry, one of ElderTreks Country Directors, will be blogging from the road as he sets off on an epic 25 days across central Asia as part of ElderTreks The Stans tour.  Keep your eyes on the blog as Bob will be posting updates throughout his tour. 

I have always thought that you could tell a city by its smell and its sound, not so anymore.

The Blue Mosque, Istanbul - Bob Perry

It has been 40 years since I first set foot in Istanbul and whilst I accept that is a long time I fully anticipated that both sound and smell would bring back memories of a city struggling to fully become the tourist mecca it should be. Well I can honestly say it's made it but the sounds and smells haven't.

Istanbul is the first stop for me on a trip that I roughly calculated would be 30,000km in 30 days. From Toronto to Istanbul to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan or as ElderTreks calls it the "5 Stans". Flying from Toronto or from some of the more major cities direct to Istanbul is no longer a hassle. Turkish Airlines provides non stop service from, and I'm going from memory here; Toronto, New York, Chicago and Los Angeles.  I am most impressed with the level of service they provided. On time, which for me is a biggy, meal and beverage service beyond what you are going to get on US or Canadian airlines folks and non stop. Ok you arrive late afternoon in time for a small dinner, a couple of beers and bedtime. Wake up the next morning to the Muezzins call as I did.

Istanbul has really, really changed. The Sultanahmet area near to Topkapi Palace which, for me was a slightly decaying area of Ottoman houses is now the "Plaka" on steroids. Literally hundreds of small "butik" hotels (and no I have not spelt that wrong), mostly having between 15 to 25 rooms in the decaying Ottoman houses that are now renovated. Restaurants and bars along every narrow cobblestoned street. My hotel the Amiral (yes I'm giving shameless plugs here), was just in front of the Blue Mosque and within 10 minutes of Agia Sophia and Topkapi Palace.  Now walking in Istanbul may only take 10 minutes, but that could be straight up.  I've forgotten that this is a city of hills, good workout for anyone.

I spent the day walking from the hotel to Taksim Square and back via almost all the hotels that ElderTreks uses in Istanbul over what is mostly cobbled streets.  Talk about tired legs the next day. Had a beautiful lunch with our agent Berna and one of our guides, Gulin, looking over the Goldern Horn talking about how Istanbul was and now is. The Sultanahmet area comes alive at night with lights and, I'm sorry to say, tourist traps. Just like everywhere else the prices within this area reflect the tourist rather than the local, you could spend $30 on something that the next day you see in a small local restaurant for $3, but hey, tell me a city that isn't like that now.

The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul - Bob Perry

The next day I wandered into the Grand Bazaar to see how it has changed, but a tip: go early, after 12 it is a mass of people. The bazaar has now become, I think, the copycat capital of the world.  Everything from Ray Ban sunglasses to Prada handbags can be had for a fraction of the real price.  It's a shame they are copies but what can you do?  The gold stores however are just as I remembered, as I was early people were cleaning the windows to make sure that every gleam and glitter would be seen. Then time to make my way back to the hotel for the transfer to the airport for the flight to Almaty, Kazakhstan.  Five more hours of flying and another 4 hour time change.

What's in a Name

Have you ever wondered how some travel agencies get their name? Some are easy to discern without much of a thought process – “Good Times Travel” or “Sunny Skies Tours”. They appeal to our simplest emotions and are supposed to convey a sense of comfort and ease and most importantly with a vacation - the notion that all will be well should you travel with them. Other companies have tried to portray themselves as having an ‘exotic’ angle with names like ‘exotic tours’ or using the name ‘wild’. Wild Asia or Wild Africa is supposed to capture your desire to see the wild side of a particular country or continent. Yet others try for the erudite approach – ‘Road Scholars’ is one example and those connected with museums and universities all have their own travel programs – Harvard Travel, Smithsonian Travel.

Did you know that ElderTreks originally started out under a different name offering adventure-travel trips to all age groups? We realized early on however that there were no other adventure-travel companies catering to the ‘mature traveler’ – i.e. those over 50 years of age and in 1987 we became ElderTreks. We knew we were on to something big when every major newspaper in North America ran a feature story on this new concept. Despite our success some people have had trouble with the term 'Elder' being used.

In essence the word ‘Elder’ means more mature and wise, somebody who may be older than you, but not necessarily old. Granted maturity and wisdom do come with age. The adjective elder is not a synonym for elderly. In comparisons between two persons, elder means "older" but not necessarily "old". In other contexts elder does denote relatively advanced age but with the added component of respect for a person's achievement, as in an elder statesman. If age alone is to be expressed, one should use older or elderly rather than elder. Unlike elder and its related forms, the adjectives old, older, and oldest are applied to things as well as to persons.

Did you also know that there was another reason for the name change? Many of our early trips were led to destinations that were really off the beaten path. They were to places like Java and Irian Jaya where we ventured into small villages and really interacted with the local people. Many of these visits involved meeting up with the local headman and exchanging gifts and greetings and gaining their authorization to enter their lands. The term ‘Elder’ was really referring to the Village Elder and was thereby a term of respect.

We therefore thought it was appropriate based on our clientele and the destinations and types of trips we were offering to use the name ElderTreks. Over the years we still get asked “Why ElderTreks?” There is a least one person a month who says that they love our company but would prefer it if we changed our name. Does it really matter what we are called? If our itineraries are unique and our staff wonderful to deal with shouldn’t this really be the most important thing? Would changing our name change ones perception of themselves? Would it change how others perceive someone traveling with us? I suppose that when someone travels with a small group of people who are over 50 years of age they might not wish to be reminded of how old they are. To me it is more important to be traveling with like-minded people to a destination that we can all enjoy rather that letting age determine things. I have often encountered travelers in their 60’s who have more energy and interest in a country than someone in their 30’s or 40’s.

In the travel industry (just as in other businesses) your name and reputation are everything. While brand imaging is a key factor, name change should really only be undertaken as a last resort. There is one well-known travel company who did in fact change their name recently. The new name they chose was a bit strange. It had an odd Latin-sounding feel to it. I had trouble remembering it and kept referring to the old name. I can only assume others had similar trouble with it for they soon changed the name a third time shortly thereafter.

We have been Eldertreks for almost 25 years now and we are proud of our name. We must be doing something right as people keep coming back year after year to travel with us, despite our name.

So for those who ask “why ElderTreks?” at least you now know “What’s in a Name”.

How To Find That Cheap Airline Ticket

As fuel costs rise and security issues dominate the skies we can expect airlines to pass these increases along to the traveler.  We are seeing it now in the increase in departure/arrival taxes, security fees and fuel surcharges.  How many of us have booked a $500.00 flight to Europe only to find that the taxes associated with the ticket amount to a further $500.00?  It becomes even more important to save money where you can.  What are your sources to finding a cheap ticket in today’s market?  Travel agencies have been around ever since the major airlines gave them a role in selling tickets.  But as we all know the airlines today would like to put the genie back in the bottle and sell directly to consumers, bypassing the travel agent.  Airline consolidators still exist whereby your travel agent will have access to reduced fares but this is a shrinking market.  Remember travel agencies still need to add their administration fees onto any ticket that they sell you.  Depending on the type of discount they receive this may or may not be your best option.

It is almost a guarantee that the people sitting in the same row as you on the plane have all paid a different price for the same ticket.  British Airways was said to have more ticket options than seats on a plane.  To get the cheapest ticket means giving up your flexibility and purchasing well in advance.  By purchasing tickets that are 100% non-refundable and offer no opportunity to change you can usually save the most.  Of course you assume all the risk should something go wrong and you need to cancel (this is where trip cancellation coverage comes in handy).  Buy that ticket in advance and you could save even further.  Look for flights during non-peak travel periods will save as well.  Red-eye flights (at least domestically) offer a savings over other times of travel.  Multi-stop itineraries are usually frowned upon by frequent flyers yet those who collect airline points have long known that they can maximize their trip by including extra flights.

The Internet has allowed airlines to reach out directly to travelers oftentimes with last-minute specials and blitz seat sales.  Once they have sold a few seats they may remove the sale.  I have seen domestic seat sales offered at 9:00am only to have them gone by 4:00pm.  Unlike charter flights there is usually no great advantage to waiting until the last minute before purchasing your tickets. Normally airlines hold on to seats until the last few days before a flight in the hopes of being able to charge higher last-minute prices for those who really need to fly.   I always advise clients that if your travel dates are firm and you have found a good price, book it for you never know how long it will last.

Internet-related search engines provide a good source in comparing fares and booking flights.  Kayak.com does not sell tickets but is rather a source to direct you to other sites where you can purchase tickets.  Sites like cheapflights.com, or travelocity.com are good reliable options.  Hotwire.com, skyauction.com and priceline.com even allow you to bid for airline tickets.  For domestic flights the Internet is really the best way to finding cheap fares today.  It becomes a bit trickier once you start looking at international (i.e. long-haul) flights.   Here are few general tips to try when booking on-line:  Change your departure city.  You may be flying out of a smaller town that does not have the international connection.  By driving to a nearby (larger) city you might save a lot of money.  Check a few days on either side of your preferred travel dates.   Airlines have days of the week when the same ticket could be hundreds of dollars less.  Another trick that I have used to great advantage in the past it to sometimes break up a long flight and price the ticket out as 2 (or 3) separate tickets.  A flight from Los Angeles to Port Moresby in Papua New Guinea will cost over $3000.00 per person.  Price the same ticket as a return to just Sydney and then price a separate ticket from Sydney to Port Moresby and the total cost is $1500.00. Half the price of the original ticket!  Of course along with this option there is always the caveat that two separate tickets means checking in bags twice, sometimes clearing Customs, allowing enough time to make your connecting flight and possibly the additional costs of an airport hotel.  If the savings are great enough this may still be the way to go.

Booking from a specialist agency still has its advantages and in this super-competitive market they should still be able to find you some good deals.  Armed with the information that you can retrieve from the internet and the airlines directly this should make your decision process somewhat simpler and at least afford you the satisfaction of knowing that you have gotten the best fare available.

Safe Travels!

Ancient Mariner - No Rhymes, Plenty of Reason

You have to love stories like this.  A four person crew.  A homemade raft. 10 weeks at Sea, from Canary Islands to St. Martin.  The skipper, 85 year old Anthony Smith. 

Talk about your ancient mariners! British adventurer Anthony Smith, 85, and a senior citizen crew have sailed their tiny raft, An-Tiki, some 3,000 miles from Portugal's Canary Islands to St. Martin in the Caribbean. They arrived this morning.

Smith and his three-man crew wanted to show what the elderly can do when they set their minds and hearts to it. The crossing puts one more quill in the British traveler and author's already feather-festooned hat. As a young man, Smith traversed Iran by motorcycle and, as a man merely middle-aged, crossed Africa aboard a one-man balloon. He is the author of 30 books and lives in London.

Read the rest at the source, ABC News.

Choosing Your Next Adventure - Is This Trip Right For You?

We often get asked by clients, “where should I go next?”  I suppose the answer is best decided by a few return questions.  Where have you already been?  What are your interests?  What activities are you looking for?  There can be nothing worse than putting someone on a trip that they are clearly not suited for.  It only leads to troubles for themselves as well as the rest of the group.  At ElderTreks we categorize the activity levels on our trips from 1 to 5 with 5 being the most strenuous trip we offer.  This would include trips that involve extensive hiking, often at high altitude or through swamps and jungles.  Obviously those travelers with any mobility issues or those suffering from certain medical conditions should really think twice before joining one of these trips.  But what about trips of a lesser rating, say a 1 or 2?  Could we still have problems?  The answer is a resounding yes!  It may not be the physical limitations, which come into play, but rather the general conditions at the destination, which may affect the trip.  When traveling to less-developed countries conditions may not be what we are used to at home or even what we have experienced on previous trips.  It is each person’s reaction to local conditions that will largely determine whether the trip is a cultural odyssey or a disaster.

What do we expect when we travel to foreign lands?  I am the first to admit that nice hotels and clean restaurants are of primary importance but should they “make or break the trip”?  In my experience the answer has mostly been ‘no’.  When traveling I tend to remind myself of where I am and that things are not like they are at ‘home’.  Sometimes the level of accommodation or food served is truly the best available.  It often helps to find the humor in the little differences we may encounter when traveling.  I once stayed in a hotel in Djerba, Tunisia.  The room was OK but what caught my attention was the decorative trail of rose petals that were strewn about the room – including bed, shower and toilet - in an attempt to brighten up the place!  I stood transfixed upon entering not sure if I was supposed to move anything or just trample over the flowers.  I spent a restless night in a raised longhouse in Northern Thailand once.  The villagers had placed a pig under the floor and he squealed forever.  Rising groggily at dawn I was cursing the animal as I came down the ladder.  I did not have long to wait before a few of the locals arrived with long knives and untying the pig, proceeded to butcher him in front of my eyes.  He had apparently been brought in the night before for our benefit and was to be the main dish for our welcome dinner.  How many of us have been to a restaurant in China, eagerly awaiting a local dish only to have the proprietors proudly serve us a huge plate of French fries!  All you can do is smile.  No matter how difficult, frustrating or ugly things can get while traveling I am always glad to be on the road exploring somewhere new.  Remember, it is these interesting experiences that will make the best stories when you get home. 

If you feel you are someone who has to have their trip go smooth – in all aspects - then may I kindly suggest that you choose your next destination very carefully.  No matter how exciting you find the prospect of visiting somewhere like Ethiopia to be, the food and hotels will surely disappoint.  But then again if these comforts are what motivate your urge to travel you will miss out of some truly amazing experiences.

Safe travels!

A wish list from your Tour Leader

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” – James Michener

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to be a tour leader? You probably think it is a life of glamor and excitement, visiting foreign countries and staying in upmarket hotels. Some of you may have even thought this might be a wonderful job based on your wealth of travel experience. There is another side to being a tour leader, one that is not as exciting.... Based on my years of experience as a tour leader I thought I would present this other side by way of a “wish list” of points that I hope will give you, dear reader another version of what it is really like. So in no particular order here they are:

1. I wish you wouldn't complain about your recent bout of travelers diarrhea, which is quite common and should not be compared to bubonic plague.

2. I wish people would not ask me what I think of their purchase of a water buffalo ashtray/lamp/incense burner at the local market. And yes, you paid too much for it.

3. I wish everyone would get along on the trip and not form up into armed camps looking to curry favor with me and rejoice in the mistakes or slip ups of the other side.

4. I wish those who suffer from excessive snoring or flatulence or some other such condition would admit to it and not look to share a room with someone else on the trip. Have a heart and pay for the single supplement. Or at the very least admit to your condition on the registration form and forewarn us.

5. I wish people would willingly share the seats on the bus and not rush out early each morning to throw a sweater or book on the front seat.

6. I wish people would try new foods on a trip and not look at each dish served like it was completely inedible slop.

7. I wish people would believe me when I say not to pet that stray dog on the street in Lima, Peru. It is not as cute as you may think.

8. I wish (after a day of seeing some amazing things) that people would not rush off the bus making a beeline for the hotel computers to check their email.

9. I wish those joining a group tour would treat it like a group tour and not their very own private trip. I promise I will stop the bus for a photo opportunity but please don't wander off for 20 minutes while the rest of us wait for you.

10. I wish people would understand that meeting on the bus at 8:45am to depart at 9:00am means just that and not for you to stroll down to the lobby looking to buy a postcard at 9:25am. There is actually a reason why we are leaving when we do.

11. I wish people would not ask us what every bush or rock we drive past is called. We really don't know and will only make up an answer.

12. I wish those who wish to shop and those who are fundamentally against it could get along. We won't spend forever in that market and yes we will get to the museum.

13. I wish those who ask me to assist them with something on the trip would try and keep it to a legal request. And if not, to trust me when I say that what happens in Burma, stays in Burma.

14. I wish fellow travelers would not berate or argue with local people on the trip. They are really trying to do their best and not ruin your vacation. It gives all of us in the group a bad name.

15. I wish there were more people who thanked us at the end of a long day. It can be quite stressful looking after a group of people as we cross crocodile-infested waters in a dugout canoe or trek up the side of a mountain in search of gorillas.

16. I wish more people were like the client who sent me photos of our trip on hand-made cards with local items from the country attached as decoration (thanks CC!).

17. I wish to keep visiting more exotic countries and sharing the beauty they offer with those who truly appreciate it.

18. I wish my boss would send me out on another trip soon....

Are You a Country-Collector?

"I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list." - Susan Sontag

You know who I am referring to. This is the guy at a party who proudly boasts how many places he's been to or that couple who just returned from a trip and boldly announced that they had now been to 50 countries. It's the person who would rather touch down in a different city for 1 hour in transit than miss the opportunity to add another country to their bucket list. What are we to make of these types? Are they guilty of not traveling in a proper fashion? And what truly constitutes having been to a country? Is visiting the capital city enough or do we suggest that there be a minimum percentage of territory covered to qualify as having visited somewhere new? I was in Yugoslavia back when it was one country. Does that mean I can add 6 more countries to my list now that the original Yugoslavia has dissolved? What about autonomous territories and disputed zones? Do they count too? At the end of the day who's to say what is right or wrong. Each of us travels for our own personal reasons. I once met up with a guy in Vietnam who told me that he had spent 3 weeks in a town in the Mekong Delta in order to try and 'experience' what their life-style was like. He looked down his nose at me when I told him I was trying to see the highlights of the entire country in 3 weeks! For each of us it is a matter of trying to find that perfect 'balance' between seeing and experiencing a place. For some, 2 days in Istanbul is enough. For others a month would be too short. For many of us we only have one chance at visiting a particular place. Could it be intent that counts? When you have a genuine interest in seeing a country and learning about its culture, history, people etc.(and would explore further if given the opportunity and time) that perhaps should be more of a determining factor rather than touching down in a country for 24 hours without a care of where you are. In the end I suppose what is right is what works for you. So go on people, keep counting. And for those who are keeping score, I have been to over 100 countries myself!

‘Should You Stay or Should You Go?’ - Weighing up the Risks of Traveling

Current events in Egypt (and last month in Tunisia) have once again raised the question of whether it is safe to travel to destinations when there is some sort of unrest occurring.  Your immediate answer would probably go far in defining you as an adventure traveler.  If you have traveled with ElderTreks before then you are probably more of an experienced traveler than the average person taking an all-inclusive package to the Dominican Republic.  Your response should be more measured and less panic-driven than others.  Or so you would think.....Our office routinely receives numerous calls from those booked on a trip where unrest has occurred and the attitude ranges from “hey cool, no problem, let me know what is happening” to “oh my god!  I can't travel there - are you guys crazy!”  Let's see if I can apply some objectivity to this question.

A few years ago I was due to lead a group to Ethiopia, spending 3 weeks visiting the sites around that amazing country.  Within 2 days of our departure violence broke out in the capital, Addis Ababa and spread to other cities in Ethiopia.  Media reports painted a bleak picture of a country about to explode.  Foreign Governments were advising their nationals to defer all non-essential travel.  The participants in my group were calling the office wondering what was going to happen, equally alarmed by what they had read in the newspapers and on-line.  I was faced with an immediate dilemma as to whether or not we should continue the trip as planned or cancel until a safer time.  I made one phone call to a colleague in Addis Ababa who assured me that the situation was under control and that the ‘problem’ as he described it was no longer an issue.  I ended up taking the group (our Ethiopian Airlines flight out of Washington D.C. was 75% empty) and even though we arrived to find a deserted airport in Addis Ababa we encountered no problems anywhere throughout the country.  In fact one advantage to the trip was that most tourists stayed away and our group had the whole country to ourselves.  Am I suggesting that you travel regardless of the situation?  Absolutely not but it is imperative to get all the facts clear.

How is one to determine whether the news we get is media hysteria or factual reporting?  With the world in constant change how is someone to decide if going on that trip to Morocco  or taking a safari in South Africa is a wise decision?  Flash points across the world can occur with barely a moments notice.  Today’s modern traveler has to be prepared to make an instant assessment on a trip they may have planned (and saved  towards) for a number of years.  There are many resources available that will enable you to make a well-informed decision.  Depending on how the trip is organized will define your first source of contact.

If your trip has been arranged by a licenced travel agency then you should be speaking with them to find out what they know and what they are prepared to do.  At ElderTreks we are in constant communication with our offices located around the world.  If a problem occurs in a destination where we have our groups we want to know the facts and to ascertain the security situation as quickly as possible.  If we have travelers in a troubled destination we quickly work to get them safely home.   If the group has not departed we need to assess the situation and to decide if the trip will occur.  Sometimes unrest is contained to a small part of a given country and it is possible to bypass the troubled areas and to continue our travels.  At other times the risk is too great and we are forced to cancel the trip.  Ultimately it is the safety of our clients which determines our course of action.

For those traveling independently or who just wish to get current information there are a number of resources at your disposal.  A good first source to check for updated information is your own Government.  The U.S. and Canadian Government's provide web sites where their citizens can view current country reports. Most governments offer web sites that they update regularly, especially in a time of crisis.  The U.S. Government web site can be found at: http://travel.state.gov/.  The Canadian Government's foreign assessment page can be reached at: http://voyage.dfaitmaeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu_e.htm.  Most trip cancellation insurance will cover you should your government issue an advisory warning against all non-essential travel to a particular country.  I find it is a good idea to compare country reports with other foreign governments such as the U.K. and Australia.  Keep in mind that governments always announce every little problem (perhaps for legal reasons?), while they seldom issue a follow-up memo to state that things are now calmer - much to the annoyance of the many countries that are targeted, such as  Ethiopia in my earlier example.

The internet is also a great source of current, up to date information.  People all over the world now have their own blog sites that give a local viewpoint.  Sites such as Facebook and Twitter are being widely used as recent events in Egypt and Tunisia have shown.  Travel web sites such as Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree Branch (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/) allow internet users to post questions and get updated information from other travellers who are there or who have recently returned from your planned destination.  Another site that lists current country reports is: http://www.airsecurity.com, where you will find country updates under their Hot Spots listing.

Keep things in perspective. Unrest in the Congo should not make you cancel your trip to South Africa. The war in Iraq does not affect a trip to Dubai. The media’s job is to sell papers – bad news sells (if it bleeds it leads) – there is oftentimes a tendency to overstate a situation. How many times have we been in a country only to receive a frantic telephone call or email from a friend or family member asking if we are alright and that they had just heard that there was a massive earthquake in our region. For many of us it is simply an opportunity to thank them for the update and to reply that we had no idea of any problems and that we are doing well!

Try and get an idea of how any unrest affects tourists (and foreigners) in general.  Many conflicts are localized and may involve small street riots or demonstrations and are not specifically targeting tourists or foreigners.  For many years Nepal experienced a low-level civil war yet the only effect this had on foreigners was a “head tax” that was imposed on those trekking in the Himalayas.  It is also possible to amend an itinerary to avoid problem areas and still see the major highlights of a country. 

In the end you have to use your own best judgement to decide if you should travel or not.  Try not to fall victim to media/government hysteria.  After all it is your trip and you want to enjoy yourself as much as possible.  If traveling is going to make you uneasy in any way than you should reconsider or postpone your travels to another time.  But as I like to say to those who question my decision to visit exotic places - either you’re a traveler or you’re not.

Safe travels!